I think I'm going to be premenently bruised while were here. The boards were using this time around are hard instead of foam boards, like we used last time. Don't get me wrong there so much better and easier to turn but they sure as hell hurt alot more when they hit you. So far I've managed to bruise both my feet, my knees, the back of my shoulder, and my side...I love surfing! No pain no gain.
Today was an off day for me, the morning didn't start out well and then afternoon well that was just a flop. We ended up paddling out for green waves but the beach were at has a very steep bank right when you walk in which makes the waves crash right on the shore. Which means you can't get in until there are no waves, so that was fine we waited and then when we got a break we paddled out, no problem. We got out there and then one wave came and it was folding before we could get over it, which means bail off the board and go under, which I did...normal procedure. Until my freaking leash broke and my board took of...yeah that was fun. Luckly Mario was able to catch my board before it got taken to far. So I had to paddle in to get a new one put on, paddling in to say the least in these conditions was interesting to say the least. Once you get near the shore the waves are just crashing on top of you which makes it very difficult to get out, especially when you have to run up hill to get out. Oh how I love being slammed face first into the sand...luckly my face and head never hit like I thought they would. After that was all fixed up we went back out there, and for some reason I decided to be a baby and not catch any waves....man I need to get my shit together and grow a pair. Oh well at least I got some good paddeling practice in. Ohh well tomorrows another day lets hope it turns around. I am however really made at myself for being such a baby, usually I'm not like that but I guess today the ocean just got the best of me. I honestly don't think I've ever been so covered in sand in my life, I'm talking it was completly all over the inside of my wet suite...The INSIDE! How the hell does sand get on the inside if your wetsuit!
Yesterday afternoons session however as freaking awesome, we got to go to peneich another town near here, that beach is alot easier to handle cuz there is no rip tide. I caught every wave yesterday no problem, today I just sucked. Oh well everyone has off days. I have developed a very good ability to keep my temper on check by doing this sport, there are many times when I just want to curse like a sailor at myself or the instructor but I don't. This could be a very frustrating sport if you let it get to you, which I try really hard not to let it. Only once so far have I wanted to punch a baby (obv not literally) tomorrow's our last day surfing for the week, and it's kristys birthday which means fun celebrations tomorrow night! .
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