Sunday, 3 February 2013

How I just love being hammered by waves

Well we decided to try out the nightlife here last night, because Mario our surf instructor is always talking about how he goes out every week. Well we knew they partied late so we decided it would be better to go out around midnight, which was fine until we got to the bar...it was all 80s music and old people. So we ordered a drink and figured we would go with it, but it never got any better so around 1:30 we decided to call it a night, we walked by another bar and it seemed like they were playing thr same type of music so we went home. This morning we decided we would have a bone to pick with Mario. We asked him about it and of course knowing our luck we went to the old people bar...and should have went to the one next door...of course. So next weekend is carnival which is the biggest party of the year here so we are going to give that a try, and most likely get Mario to take us lol. I'm sure he will be so thrilled.

This morning we went out to another surf spot which I'm not saposed to talk about because its a secret spot. It was probably the most imtindaing place we surfed, the waves were a channel and if you weren't in it you would get hammered continually. It started off ok but I caught one and it completely pulverized me...hold breathe for longer then I thought possible...check. I haven't had a crash that bad yet but it was a good experience because now I know what to expect next time. I'm glade I had the sense to not panack and just let it ride out. Once I recovered from that I got back on my board and started to paddle out, except I was still in the Chanel which ment I was getting slammed. I made it back out but man was that tiring.

This afternoon session we went to another beach that we went to yesterday, it turned my day right back around. I caught some awesome green waves and had a really good time. However the water was the coldest is been since we've been here today. In Joao's words kill or be killed, which I think is completly perfect for surfing because its defentily true. One thing I found out today was that apparently my feet can touch the back of my head...I fell in a green wave and did a complete somersault underwater where my feet decided they needed to touch the back of my head...yeah that felt good. Other then that it was a sick day for surfing, and tomorrow is saposed to be better.

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